The drive from Debark to Axum is only 250km so at 3 in the afternoon we are jumping in the car to drive off into the mountains. Only 250km in the mountain on very rough roads, making us realize that we might not complete this before dark. The first 100km are amazing through the mountains with majestic trees and many small villages where children run up to the car smiling and yelling 'yuyuyuyuyuuyuyu' until one of them catches your look and he/she completely lights up. The look in their eyes and smile on their faces are worth a million dollars! In 1 hour we have only covered 20km so if the road does improve we will have to sleep somewhere along the way. We find a spot away from villages under a large tree just before the rain starts. Our main concern is privacy since whenever we stop at daytime on the road the car is immediately surrounded by 10 people or more.

The following morning, after a peaceful night without any disturbance, we take off to drive the next 150km to Axum. 75km before Axum we see black at the horizon. Is this really what I think it is we say to each other? YES, it is tarmac, really nice tarmac! With some small interruptions we drive to Axum on a clean new road.

Axum is going to be our base for a few days because we found a luxurious hotel for Ethiopian standards: running hot water, electricity and a clean bed (no flees). Luckily the price is Ethiopian and only 7 euros per night which is cheaper than many campings we have stayed. Saturday is market day in Axum so that is where we go to get a sense of local life in the Tigrai region. On the market a few fresh vegetables are sold, you mainly see different types of wheat such as teff, used to make injera (the local sour pancake), cotton and plastic shoes or second hand clothing. After spending an hour, we sit down to just look around and immediately kids are surrounding us. We cannot help but to take pictures and this is how we meet Natnael.

After taking some pictures we show them to the children and Natnael, a 13 year-old boy, asks us where we are from. As he speaks good English, he can actually translate for us. We spend the afternoon with him while he shows us around the market. In the middle of many children is Elsa, a very sweat 8 year old girl that does not speak English yet but with her pure look draws our attention. We also show her picture on the camera which triggers a big and beautiful smile on her face. She grabs Vals' hand and never lets go for the rest of the afternoon, smiling at Val when people react to them holding hands in the market. Together with Natnael and Elsa we stroll over the market going from stand to stand. Natnael sometimes explains to us what the different wheats are for or the spices that are sold on the market. Barry explains to Natnael that we never see raw cotton in Europe, only the finished sweater or pants that we wear. It does not take long for Natnael to grab our camera and to start taking pictures while we talk with some of the children. A few pointers here and there from Barry and Natnael quickly takes nice pictures without any help.

Unintentionally we end up spending the whole day on the market with Elsa and Natnael and walk them home to make sure that they are safe. Elsa's mum was caught by surprise when we showed up with her daughter but gives us a warm welcome. Elsa is proud to show us her house before saying goodbye. We have met with Natnael every day since and will surely visit Elsa again later this week. They are 2 wonderful kids.

Tags: wild camping, hotel

We arrive in Debark a bit too late to buy the entry tickets for the park and to arrange the scout so ended up sleeping in town at the Simien Park Hotel. As it turns out to be not the cleanest place in town we sleep in the car. Toilets but no shower; if you like a bucket of water it can be provided. As if we would take a bush shower in the parking area in front of all the other guests?! No need to mention we were out of there at first light going to the ticket office for the Simien Mountains.

Despite our efforts for not taking a scout we are gently but firmly explained that the armed scout is mandatory for our own safety and that he knows the road (there is only one road in the Simien Mountains). Shortly after, the scout Toso jumps in the back of the car with his loaded or not loaded historic old gun. We drive through the market of Debark into the mountains leading to the park gate where our tickets and the presence of a scout are checked. Within 10km after the gate we start to see the famous Gelada baboons. It is a small group of about 20 animals all busy feeding themselves on the grasses of the plains. We are driving to one of the last camps in the park (Chennek) which takes us through most of the park by road going up and down the many mountains. Simien Mountains are one of Africa's largest range with several peaks topping 4,000 meters. The views are spectacular from the road but only once you get out of the car you can see that part of the road leads you along cliffs that are at least a few hundred meters high. Arriving at Chennek camp, 3,614 meters high, not only you can feel the altitude but also the temperature drop: you are literally in the clouds that will bring rain in the late afternoon/evening.

After catching our breath we realize that the car is parked in the middle of a large group of baboons. They are everywhere around us and soon we find ourselves photographing these beautiful baboons that can only be seen in Ethiopia. Besides photographing them it is really interesting to just watch the behavior and social interaction within the group. Very quickly you start to see the different characters of the animals and their role within the group. It made me, Barry, feel totally in my element. Just being in between and so close to these animals is special. These baboons are sometimes so close, sometimes less than 2 meters away that it is really different from other parks where you are supposed to stay in your car for your safety. When you see the males yawning and showing their teeth, you wonder how safe you really are. But at the same time they show no aggression towards us. The 'smarter' ones that do not want to be photographed simply turn their back to you and do not even walk away. Just minding their own business and continue eating the grass.

From one second to the next a small fight breaks out in the group and stops as quickly as it started making it very difficult to photograph. At the end of the afternoon the group slowly makes their way to the cliffs where they descend to find safe sleeping grounds for the night leaving us just enough time to make dinner before the rain starts. The night is cold but luckily we can sleep in the car.

Toso wakes us up early in the morning because the Geladas are back and the sun is up providing some warmth before it hides again behind the clouds around 10. The baboons are grooming each other in the morning sun while the youngsters are playing in a pool of water nearby. They chase each other around the plains and hide with their mothers when the chase turns almost into a small fight. The Simien Mountains are breathtaking and spending a few weeks to enjoy the scenery, the animals or hiking is worth it.

Tags: camping

The border crossing with Ethiopia is special and something to remember and not like any other border crossing we have seen in the past few months of traveling. You go from hut to hut and meet people without any uniform or looking close to an official. You get a few stamps, carnet de passage is signed and that's it. The Bradt Travel Guide describes it as a dusty one-horse outpost which is more or less what it is like.

After the border crossing we drive into the beautiful mountains up to 2,000 meters high and see the temperature drop to as low as 16 degrees and have to pull out our sweaters. The roads are very nice to drive on but are clearly not made for cars despite being of perfect tarmac. The roads are for cattle, donkeys, kids and everybody else that needs to go from one village to the next. The speed of driving drops allowing you to enjoy the scenery. In the first village that we pass we are met by kids running up to the car screaming 'yuyuyuyuyuyuyuyuyuyu' and waving to us with a big smile on their face. This continues until we reach Gonder where make a stop at the bank to change money since the bank at the border was closed between 12 and 15:00. With some cash in the pocket we drive some 65km to Tim&Kim Village in Gorgora at Lake Tana to spend a few days. Every morning we wake up by the side of the lake in which we take a bath sharing it with a hippo and the fish eagles. It is very nice to stay and relax in this community based project run by a young Dutch couple.

Tags: camping, hotel

When we approach Sudan, still being in Egypt, we cannot help but think about what it will be like when we get there. All we know about Sudan is what we have seen in the news about Darfur area and that is not very good to say the least. On other travelers' websites we also read that Sudanese people steal your heart in a second and show you a very different side of the country. People we meet on the way are wondering if we should go there and if it will be safe to travel. Not strange to see their reactions since all they have seen from Sudan is what is shown on television or printed in the newspapers and magazines. What will Sudan be like for us?

Finally in Sudan we ourselves are taken by surprise and see a different side of the country. After leaving Wadi Halfa we head into the Nubian desert to find a Deffufa in Kerma. A Deffufa is a mud-brick building, 3500 years old, and used for funeral ceremonies at the time of the Kushite Kingdom. The building itself is almost completely in ruins but it is the occasion for us to meet a very nice family that shows us the site via their back-garden. The father introduces us to his wives and many children. English was not spoken but it did not matter to the conversation. Somehow we were made very welcome and were even offered to spend the night at their house. We have these encounters in almost all villages that we go through in the Nubian and Bayuda desert.

Another village, Abri, made of typical mud houses surrounded by a large enclosure, gives Barry the opportunity to meet children swimming in the Nile. They are looking innocent and as just local kids that are having a great time in the river but an older man passing by tells him after a while that these kids are actually coming from the Darfur area escaping the tragedy that is taking place there.

At the end of the day that is again hot and dusty, we find a spot for wild camping with a tree that provides us with some shade. There appears to be nobody in the area so we park the car to set up camp. Before we can get the chairs out to have a cold drink we are surrounded by 8 people, some goats and camels. Where did they come from? Once again we do not speak a common language but can share a drink with them and have a chat using our hands and sign language. The kids run off with a bottle of water and we all carry on with our day.

The day after we reach the Meroe Pyramids where we want to spend the night but are caught by a weather spectacle: a sandstorm. At first sight it looks like it is raining in the distance but then it becomes clearer as soon as the brown clouds of sand swallow us and we are left with nothing but to park the car and wait for the worst to pass. It slowly clears up so that we can drive again. We decide to make it to Khartoum that day because we have no real other option. Doors and windows closed do not matter, we find dust everywhere. Arriving late in Khartoum we set up our tent at the Blue Nile Sailing Club. The sandstorm has passed, we can relax again.

After a few days in Khartoum we drive east towards Ethiopia. We can really do with some milder weather. The temperature during the day in Sudan easily reaches 45 degrees and higher with peaks of 53 in the car. It is hot, dusty and not many showers available. The closer we get to Ethiopia the lower the temperature gets and finally drops below 40 degrees. It almost feels a little cold.

The eastern side of the country gives a different landscape compared to the North where we come from. It is less dusty and darker more fertile soil with a lot of cattle, camels in large groups and agriculture everywhere. The mud houses slowly disappear and huts start to show up telling you that you are getting closer to 'real' Africa. Besides the different style in houses you can also sense that the people are different here. Besides their skin color being darker, they come across as less open/more cautious towards foreigners.

Based on our short and limited experience in Sudan we can say that it is not a united country. We have seen only very little of this vast country, the largest in Africa, but we can already sense that regions within the country have strong identities and are very different from each other, Khartoum being a world on its own, apart from the rest. The people in Sudan can take you by surprise and really show you another side than the one you see in the news.

Tags: wild camping, camping, hotel

In Aswan we meet 4 Dutch guys from Dustroads (Tom, Bram, Michel and Dirk) who are traveling the same route but twice as fast as we do. Together we go to the ticket office for the ferry and do a trip through town to arrange all the necessary paperwork. On Sunday we drive with 3 cars to the port to meet up with Baraka who helps us with all the steps needed before we can actually load the cars on the barge. Just before loading we have a closer look at the barge and find many new 15cm long steel nails lying all over. A quick cleanup and we carefully drive the cars onto the ferry. Saying goodbye to the car feels strange but the Sudanese captain promised to look after them and to arrive in Wadi Halfa as soon as possible, maybe even on the same day as we will. Once back in town we enjoy the swimming pool one more time and do some last minute shopping before saying goodbye to Egypt.

On Monday morning we all jump in the taxi and meet again with Baraka in the port of Aswan and go through immigration. He told us the day before that the spot below the rescue boat on deck is a good spot as it provides you shade all day. He is right, it is a nice location since we end up watching the loading of the ferry for 8 long hours before departing around 7PM! Many Sudanese passengers bring back electric cooking devices to Sudan. We see everything getting loaded from where we sit the whole day: complete tea sets, fridges, furniture, etc. The night is rough: cold and long without any comfort besides the sleeping mat that Bram shared with us. Thanks Bram.

We wake up around 5:30 with about 50 Muslims praying on deck in between all the luggage and some people still sleeping just before passing by the magnificent site of Abu Simbel on our right.

We arrive in Wadi Halfa around midday after spending 25 hours sitting on a steel deck - stretching our legs feels great. Magdi Boshara, an honest and straightforward Sudanese fixer, meets us on the boat in the restaurant to start the immigration process. We fight our way out of the ferry and get into a shuttle that takes us to customs. We get word that the barge with our vehicles might arrive in the next 2 hours and are asked if we want to take the cars today or tomorrow. Today of course, since that allows us to finish all the steps needed today to get into Sudan and sleep in our own beds! 5 Hours later Magdi has arranged all the paperwork while we collect the cars and drive into Sudan. Last thing we need to do, the next day, is the Alien registration since this cannot happen today anymore. We drive through Wadi Halfa and set up camp on the outskirts of town in the desert. Michel, from the Dustroads team, gets the veggies out and fixes us all a nice dinner under the stars in Sudan. We meet with Magdi in town the next day to do the Alien Registration and get the photo permit.

Practical information regarding the ferry crossing from Egypt into Sudan
On Saturday - Bureaucracy in Aswan

1. Go to the Nile River Valley Transportation Office - Mr Salha to buy passenger tickets
2. Go to Traffic court in Aswan to get a paper stating that you have no fines in Egypt outstanding
3. Go to Traffic Police and give the court paper and Egyptian license plates and get another paper to give to customs at the port when boarding the ferry
4. Drive back to the Nile River Valley Transportation Office to buy the actual passenger tickets (156 pounds for second class with meal included)

All this took us about 3 hours

On Sunday - Loading car on the barge

1. At 09:00 you are at the port (15km out of town) to load the car on the barge
2. You meet with Baraka, fixer from the ferry company (picture in slideshow), who will take you through the next steps at the port to get your car on the ferry (no fee charged by him)
3. You register your passport details at the entry of the port and then wait for 3 hours (20 pounds)
4. Once you are inside the gates you do a custom check of the car (10 minutes)
5. Drive to main building on the right to purchase the vehicle ticket (2,012 pounds)
6. You go to the customs building on the left to stamp the carnet de passage (car out of Egypt) (25 pounds for the carnet)
7. Drive car to the barge and loading is done
8. Taxi back to town (20 pounds)

Step 3 to 8 are supported by Baraka. (prices mentioned are in Egyptian pounds per person). All steps this day took us 5 hours.

On Monday - Boarding passenger ferry

1. At 09:30 taxi to port - 10:00 arrival
2. Check passenger tickets at the entry of the port
3. Scan of luggage
4. In customs building obtaining passport stamps and pay small exit tax
5. Go to the ferry to claim your spot on deck if you do not have a 1st class cabin
6. Wait for 8 hours and watch the loading of the ferry from deck

On the Sudanese side Magdi (nubatia51@yahoo.com / +249 121 730 885) helps to arrange everything for a fixed fee of US25:

1. Immigration
2. Carnet de Passage (US15)
3. Travel Permit
4. Alien Registration (US45 per person)
5. Photo Permit (US10 per person)

Personal note: Be patient in Sudan with the bureaucracy which is long and difficult. The country is not adapted to tourism (which gives its charm after all), the procedures for entry and exit are nowhere indicated and have to be done in different offices/buildings, in different locations. However, if you miss one of the steps you will be illegal in the country which will cause problems so pay attention.

Tags: ferry, fixer