Ethiopia
South Omo Valley, Ethiopia
16 / Jul / 2010
Already when we entered Ethiopia, about 5 weeks ago, we had written down the Omo Valley as a must see on our list. From Konso, where saying goodbye to Nele and Bjorn wasn't easy as none of us wanted to separate ways, there is only one road into the Omo Valley. After crossing the bridge you drive into the Valley and all we can think about are the tribes that we are going to see and photograph. We find out in the guidebook that we need to obtain a travel permit to allow us to travel in the Omo Valley by private vehicle, which according to the Bradt guidebook could be obtained in Addis, Konso or Jinka. Addis is far behind us, in Konso they tell us to get it in Jinka because the Omo Valley is not their territory and arriving in Jinka we are faced with another, rather negative, situation. They want us to hire a guide before we could get this travel permit. At this point, we're really getting fed up with the multiple Ethiopian surprises. If it's not paying extra for your car at a parking where nobody else is paying, or being charged for a room + campsite in the parking of the hotel, or systematically paying triple the prices than local people when doing shopping, or stones being thrown at your car by the kids on the side of the road, or the numerous roadworks without any logic behind it, this time it's a guide in order to get the travel permit. The guide, that you pay 20€ per day for his services (quiet a high price for Ethiopia), has of course to travel in your car that is already overloaded, you have to feed and pay lodging for him because he hasn't got enough food or money with him, he's actually not that knowledgable but speaks Amharic and English, and he carries flees in his bag on top of it all. As said, we're reaching our limits in this beautiful country that has so much to offer but prefers to make it difficult for tourists to visit.
We tell the officer in charge that we'll think about the situation and come back to him the day after. In the meantime, we drive to the guides center in town to find out what type of services they can offer and at what cost. We discuss the plans that we have and the wish of photographing the tribes, going away from the touristic circuit. We have a reasonable click with one of the guides and agree with him that he can come with us for the coming days and, if we like his work, that he might end up getting 8 days of work (worth one month salary in that country).
The next day, we try to meet the officer in charge again to get the permit based on the fact that we have hired the guide. Not surprisingly, the guy is not there and also the guide we selected is forbidden to come with us because they work on rotation (which they forgot to mention the day before). The assistant of the officer in charge is now trying to arrange the permit which we finally get after waiting another 3 hours. The manager of the guides finally decides to give us the one guide we had chosen after all, to not miss 8 days of work.
After getting everything sorted, we head deeper into the Omo Valley to see the Mursi tribe that live in Mago National Park. We set up camp in Hayloha, a Mursi village, and the morning after we are met by several young Mursi men at the bottom of the ladder for our tent. All of them want their picture taken at a few Birr per click. Here, our guide comes in handy and explains them that we'll take pictures at the end of the day when the sun sets. During the day, we try to see whom of the village w'd like to photograph and agree a price. No money, no picture! It's that simple for them.
Our next stop is South of Mago National Park and we have to drive through it. The track, as we find out along the way, is only driven a few times per year. The grass is so high that it is almost impossible to distinguish any track and we're literally under attack by Tsetse flies. All windows closed, we kill the flies that managed to get into the car to not get bitten by them and push on. Only 4 km later we decide to head back, we are not comfortable with the situation and cannot imagine what we'd do if the car brakes down in the middle of nowhere with hardly or no traffic in that remote area.
Back in Jinka, we try to find the Ari tribe, 11 km out of town, that we're told decorate themselves with leaves and flowers, but when finally in the village we find out that they do this only during weddings and that not many of them live in the traditional way anymore.
The next day, we drive to Turmi, approx. 120km on an ok gravel road. In Turmi, we'll find the Hamer and Bana tribes and if we're lucky a bull jumping ceremony. The Hamer women wear dresses made from goat skin and put ocre in their hair giving it a beautiful reddish glow. The Hamer, that live in the many villages around Turmi, come on Monday, market day, into town to sell cattle and buy sorghum and maize. The men wear short colorful skirts, bandanas around their head and have impressive scarification on their chest. Luck has come our way, there is a Hamer wedding ceremony the next day that we enjoy photographing obviously.
After visiting a few more villages, we decide to leave the Omo Valley. We have mixed feelings about this experience. On one hand, we loved seeing the different tribes and their primitive culture, on the other hand we couldn't enjoy many moments because the contact with them is strictly limited to photo and money. As soon as they understand you don't want to take a picture, at that moment the contact is over. Tourism has brought money and many other things to the valley including the abuse of alcohol. Often we found a whole village drunk by 1pm in the afternoon... Did tourism ruin the traditions of the Omo Valley?
We tell the officer in charge that we'll think about the situation and come back to him the day after. In the meantime, we drive to the guides center in town to find out what type of services they can offer and at what cost. We discuss the plans that we have and the wish of photographing the tribes, going away from the touristic circuit. We have a reasonable click with one of the guides and agree with him that he can come with us for the coming days and, if we like his work, that he might end up getting 8 days of work (worth one month salary in that country).
The next day, we try to meet the officer in charge again to get the permit based on the fact that we have hired the guide. Not surprisingly, the guy is not there and also the guide we selected is forbidden to come with us because they work on rotation (which they forgot to mention the day before). The assistant of the officer in charge is now trying to arrange the permit which we finally get after waiting another 3 hours. The manager of the guides finally decides to give us the one guide we had chosen after all, to not miss 8 days of work.
After getting everything sorted, we head deeper into the Omo Valley to see the Mursi tribe that live in Mago National Park. We set up camp in Hayloha, a Mursi village, and the morning after we are met by several young Mursi men at the bottom of the ladder for our tent. All of them want their picture taken at a few Birr per click. Here, our guide comes in handy and explains them that we'll take pictures at the end of the day when the sun sets. During the day, we try to see whom of the village w'd like to photograph and agree a price. No money, no picture! It's that simple for them.
Our next stop is South of Mago National Park and we have to drive through it. The track, as we find out along the way, is only driven a few times per year. The grass is so high that it is almost impossible to distinguish any track and we're literally under attack by Tsetse flies. All windows closed, we kill the flies that managed to get into the car to not get bitten by them and push on. Only 4 km later we decide to head back, we are not comfortable with the situation and cannot imagine what we'd do if the car brakes down in the middle of nowhere with hardly or no traffic in that remote area.
Back in Jinka, we try to find the Ari tribe, 11 km out of town, that we're told decorate themselves with leaves and flowers, but when finally in the village we find out that they do this only during weddings and that not many of them live in the traditional way anymore.
The next day, we drive to Turmi, approx. 120km on an ok gravel road. In Turmi, we'll find the Hamer and Bana tribes and if we're lucky a bull jumping ceremony. The Hamer women wear dresses made from goat skin and put ocre in their hair giving it a beautiful reddish glow. The Hamer, that live in the many villages around Turmi, come on Monday, market day, into town to sell cattle and buy sorghum and maize. The men wear short colorful skirts, bandanas around their head and have impressive scarification on their chest. Luck has come our way, there is a Hamer wedding ceremony the next day that we enjoy photographing obviously.
After visiting a few more villages, we decide to leave the Omo Valley. We have mixed feelings about this experience. On one hand, we loved seeing the different tribes and their primitive culture, on the other hand we couldn't enjoy many moments because the contact with them is strictly limited to photo and money. As soon as they understand you don't want to take a picture, at that moment the contact is over. Tourism has brought money and many other things to the valley including the abuse of alcohol. Often we found a whole village drunk by 1pm in the afternoon... Did tourism ruin the traditions of the Omo Valley?
Heading South, Ethiopia
03 / Jul / 2010
Returning from Harar, we have to drive the same road back, the only one on this side of the country. After Adama, we head South towards Sodere Hot Springs, to end up in the most ridiculous situation that we faced so far in Ethiopia: Sodere is considered a National Park for which you have to pay an entry fee, all normal so far, but they charge you 4 Birr extra (1.3 euro cent) for each bottle of water you carry in your car. Unfortunately, we have just stocked up in Adama and carry something like 50 bottles each. It is obviously not about the extra money we'd have to pay but the principle. They categorically refuse to understand that we're camping, therefore have to carry a lot of water, so we turn around and leave, even if we have no idea yet where to head to at 5pm. After a long day of 12-hours driving, we finally reach camp at Lake Langano.
Karkaro Beach Camp has a wonderful setting on a clean beach at Lake Langano. We realize the beauty of the place only the morning after in the early light when waking up in front of this gorgeous lake with absolutely nobody around to bother us. This is the first time ever in Ethiopia that we can actually enjoy a location without having at least 10 people around us asking for money, water or a pen. No need to say that 2 days at least are needed to enjoy that place the way it should be. Barry and Bjorn go and catch some fish, while Nele and Val swim in the warm water of the lake free of Bilharzia. A few hours later, we have 4 fish on the grill, killed and cleaned by the brave Nele. Bjorn is the cook for the night and surprises us with his delicious chocolate mousse, specially made for Val's birthday.
Surprisingly, because we're more solo travelers, it became second nature to explore Ethiopia with Bjorn and Nele. Therefore saying goodbye a few hundred kilometers South in Konso, where our roads are splitting, is a bit difficult. They continue South towards the border with Kenya to meet family that is coming over and we go West to the Omo Valley. Along the way, Bjorn and Nele became our dear friends and we're somehow sure to meet again somewhere.
Karkaro Beach Camp has a wonderful setting on a clean beach at Lake Langano. We realize the beauty of the place only the morning after in the early light when waking up in front of this gorgeous lake with absolutely nobody around to bother us. This is the first time ever in Ethiopia that we can actually enjoy a location without having at least 10 people around us asking for money, water or a pen. No need to say that 2 days at least are needed to enjoy that place the way it should be. Barry and Bjorn go and catch some fish, while Nele and Val swim in the warm water of the lake free of Bilharzia. A few hours later, we have 4 fish on the grill, killed and cleaned by the brave Nele. Bjorn is the cook for the night and surprises us with his delicious chocolate mousse, specially made for Val's birthday.
Surprisingly, because we're more solo travelers, it became second nature to explore Ethiopia with Bjorn and Nele. Therefore saying goodbye a few hundred kilometers South in Konso, where our roads are splitting, is a bit difficult. They continue South towards the border with Kenya to meet family that is coming over and we go West to the Omo Valley. Along the way, Bjorn and Nele became our dear friends and we're somehow sure to meet again somewhere.
Wild hyenas in Harar, Ethiopia
02 / Jul / 2010
After a 10-hour drive that day, we enter Harar in the dark (once again) looking for a suitable place to stay. This seems to be more difficult that initially expected. The girls, Nele and Val, suggest after having checked several hotels, to simply book a room to use its bathroom but to camp outside on the parking - to the astonishment of the hotel employees.
Harar is located on the far East-side of Ethiopia, close to Somalia. A Muslim community, it is considered the fourth holiest city for Islam and its high doors were closed to non-Muslim people until the 19th century. Counting no less than 90 mosques, we walk through the streets of the old city with stone houses or white-washed walls, before reaching the colorful market. With its picturesque scenes of daily life, women selling out of small stands and lots of children running around, we start to understand why the French poet Arthur Rimbaud chased this place to settle down at the end of his life.
Harar is famous in the overlanders' community for the Hyena man Yussuf Pepe. Every evening, he feeds 15-20 wild hyenas in front of his house, just outside of the walled city of Harar. We visit Yussuf in his fields that afternoon to make an appointment for the coming evening, we want to see what it's like. Arriving at night under the dark African sky, we distinguish Yussuf' shadow, he's getting ready and he looks as if he's in some sort of trance. He sits down under a tree and start calling the hyenas by their names. One by one you see them emerging from the dark. No more than 10 meters away from us are about 12 hyenas. As time is passing by, more and more hyenas arrive to be fed by Yussuf or one of the visitors that joined him. Bjorn said he wouldn't feed the hyenas, but he is in fact the first to hold the stick with some meat! Kneeling down, being at eye level with these powerful animals is scary at the beginning but most of all exciting. Putting the stick in your mouth to feed them is even better; the hyena has to come within 30 cm from your face to grab the meat off the stick. Getting up scares them away immediately, even though at no time we feel unsafe. They're slightly bigger than a domestic dog but shy as a little cat. A great experience to cherish forever!
Harar is located on the far East-side of Ethiopia, close to Somalia. A Muslim community, it is considered the fourth holiest city for Islam and its high doors were closed to non-Muslim people until the 19th century. Counting no less than 90 mosques, we walk through the streets of the old city with stone houses or white-washed walls, before reaching the colorful market. With its picturesque scenes of daily life, women selling out of small stands and lots of children running around, we start to understand why the French poet Arthur Rimbaud chased this place to settle down at the end of his life.
Harar is famous in the overlanders' community for the Hyena man Yussuf Pepe. Every evening, he feeds 15-20 wild hyenas in front of his house, just outside of the walled city of Harar. We visit Yussuf in his fields that afternoon to make an appointment for the coming evening, we want to see what it's like. Arriving at night under the dark African sky, we distinguish Yussuf' shadow, he's getting ready and he looks as if he's in some sort of trance. He sits down under a tree and start calling the hyenas by their names. One by one you see them emerging from the dark. No more than 10 meters away from us are about 12 hyenas. As time is passing by, more and more hyenas arrive to be fed by Yussuf or one of the visitors that joined him. Bjorn said he wouldn't feed the hyenas, but he is in fact the first to hold the stick with some meat! Kneeling down, being at eye level with these powerful animals is scary at the beginning but most of all exciting. Putting the stick in your mouth to feed them is even better; the hyena has to come within 30 cm from your face to grab the meat off the stick. Getting up scares them away immediately, even though at no time we feel unsafe. They're slightly bigger than a domestic dog but shy as a little cat. A great experience to cherish forever!
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
28 / Jun / 2010
Out of Lalibela on our way to Kombolcha, we meet other overlanders heading in the opposite direction - or so we think. We can't help but stop the car to meet up with them, we have not seen many other overlanders for a while and it is always nice to meet travelers. Bjorn and Nele from Belgium, a lovely couple, are on their way to Addis, so actually we all go in the same direction! We all speak each others language (Barry speaks Dutch, Val French, Bjorn and Nele Dutch and French) but the first 5 minutes of our chaotic conversation are a mix of languages without knowing who speaks what! That issue will sort itself out very quickly: the girls speak French with each other, the boys Dutch and we all switch to English otherwise. On top of this Bjorn and Nele are a little stressed; their front axle broke in the Danakil Depression (not a place where you want your car to brake down) and now they are not confident with their Land Rover after the repair. The brakes squeak a lot and when going uphill the engine overheats . We offer to drive behind them as their support vehicle in case something would go wrong. Nele is a bit relieved and Bjorn doesn't mind either.
We arrive in Addis in a rainy late afternoon, finding the camping in that chaotic city turns out to be difficult, although each car has its own GPS. Addis doesn't offer much activities nor attraction to us, so within 3 days with Bjorn and Nele we arrange our Kenyan visa, go shopping for spare parts at Toyota Parts Center, buy 2 new tires and along the way struggle to find a working ATM machine (yes, it can be more difficult than one might think, even in a capital!). We stay at Wim's Holland House but the rain does not make the camping very pleasant, so as soon as we are sorted with "stuff to do" in the main city, we hit the road again, happy to go away from the busy town.
We arrive in Addis in a rainy late afternoon, finding the camping in that chaotic city turns out to be difficult, although each car has its own GPS. Addis doesn't offer much activities nor attraction to us, so within 3 days with Bjorn and Nele we arrange our Kenyan visa, go shopping for spare parts at Toyota Parts Center, buy 2 new tires and along the way struggle to find a working ATM machine (yes, it can be more difficult than one might think, even in a capital!). We stay at Wim's Holland House but the rain does not make the camping very pleasant, so as soon as we are sorted with "stuff to do" in the main city, we hit the road again, happy to go away from the busy town.
Lalibela, Ethiopia
24 / Jun / 2010
Lalibela doesn't disappoint us… We're not found of touristic visits, but this site has much more to offer than just old stones.
Bet Medhane Alem is the largest monolithic rock-hewn church in the world, the vast interior with its 36 large pillars creates a cathedral-like austerity. Being the first church we visit with Memekia, it is breathtaking and difficult to imagine how such a building could have been constructed in the dark Middle Age time. Fortunately King Lalibela had the help of the angels, according to the tradition...
Memekia is the first guide we hire and he comes as a nice surprise: he is knowledgable, friendly and speaks very good English. He takes us through the churches during a complete afternoon and the following morning. Many tunnels and stairs connect the several churches creating a feeling of walking in a labyrinth. Memekia shares with us his knowledge about each of the churches that he studied at the university in Addis Ababa.
Bet Giyorgis (St. George) is definitely the most majestic of all churches in Lalibela. It is excavated below ground level in a sunken courtyard enclosed by precipitous walls. Close to 15 meters in height, the church is carved in the shape of a symmetrical cruciform tower. Arriving early morning, we have the chance to see this majestic site without the shadow of any tourist disturbing the religious atmosphere, the priest who guards the church explains to us the various religious components of that unique place.
The churches of Lalibela were built in the 12th century and are carved out of the rocks from top to bottom making them almost invisible in the general landscape. Lalibela is absolutely the most worthy site in Ethiopia to visit.
Bet Medhane Alem is the largest monolithic rock-hewn church in the world, the vast interior with its 36 large pillars creates a cathedral-like austerity. Being the first church we visit with Memekia, it is breathtaking and difficult to imagine how such a building could have been constructed in the dark Middle Age time. Fortunately King Lalibela had the help of the angels, according to the tradition...
Memekia is the first guide we hire and he comes as a nice surprise: he is knowledgable, friendly and speaks very good English. He takes us through the churches during a complete afternoon and the following morning. Many tunnels and stairs connect the several churches creating a feeling of walking in a labyrinth. Memekia shares with us his knowledge about each of the churches that he studied at the university in Addis Ababa.
Bet Giyorgis (St. George) is definitely the most majestic of all churches in Lalibela. It is excavated below ground level in a sunken courtyard enclosed by precipitous walls. Close to 15 meters in height, the church is carved in the shape of a symmetrical cruciform tower. Arriving early morning, we have the chance to see this majestic site without the shadow of any tourist disturbing the religious atmosphere, the priest who guards the church explains to us the various religious components of that unique place.
The churches of Lalibela were built in the 12th century and are carved out of the rocks from top to bottom making them almost invisible in the general landscape. Lalibela is absolutely the most worthy site in Ethiopia to visit.
Ethiopia - the market in Axum with Elsa and Natnael
14 / Jun / 2010
The drive from Debark to Axum is only 250km so at 3 in the afternoon we are jumping in the car to drive off into the mountains. Only 250km in the mountain on very rough roads, making us realize that we might not complete this before dark. The first 100km are amazing through the mountains with majestic trees and many small villages where children run up to the car smiling and yelling 'yuyuyuyuyuuyuyu' until one of them catches your look and he/she completely lights up. The look in their eyes and smile on their faces are worth a million dollars! In 1 hour we have only covered 20km so if the road does improve we will have to sleep somewhere along the way. We find a spot away from villages under a large tree just before the rain starts. Our main concern is privacy since whenever we stop at daytime on the road the car is immediately surrounded by 10 people or more.
The following morning, after a peaceful night without any disturbance, we take off to drive the next 150km to Axum. 75km before Axum we see black at the horizon. Is this really what I think it is we say to each other? YES, it is tarmac, really nice tarmac! With some small interruptions we drive to Axum on a clean new road.
Axum is going to be our base for a few days because we found a luxurious hotel for Ethiopian standards: running hot water, electricity and a clean bed (no flees). Luckily the price is Ethiopian and only 7 euros per night which is cheaper than many campings we have stayed. Saturday is market day in Axum so that is where we go to get a sense of local life in the Tigrai region. On the market a few fresh vegetables are sold, you mainly see different types of wheat such as teff, used to make injera (the local sour pancake), cotton and plastic shoes or second hand clothing. After spending an hour, we sit down to just look around and immediately kids are surrounding us. We cannot help but to take pictures and this is how we meet Natnael.
After taking some pictures we show them to the children and Natnael, a 13 year-old boy, asks us where we are from. As he speaks good English, he can actually translate for us. We spend the afternoon with him while he shows us around the market. In the middle of many children is Elsa, a very sweat 8 year old girl that does not speak English yet but with her pure look draws our attention. We also show her picture on the camera which triggers a big and beautiful smile on her face. She grabs Vals' hand and never lets go for the rest of the afternoon, smiling at Val when people react to them holding hands in the market. Together with Natnael and Elsa we stroll over the market going from stand to stand. Natnael sometimes explains to us what the different wheats are for or the spices that are sold on the market. Barry explains to Natnael that we never see raw cotton in Europe, only the finished sweater or pants that we wear. It does not take long for Natnael to grab our camera and to start taking pictures while we talk with some of the children. A few pointers here and there from Barry and Natnael quickly takes nice pictures without any help.
Unintentionally we end up spending the whole day on the market with Elsa and Natnael and walk them home to make sure that they are safe. Elsa's mum was caught by surprise when we showed up with her daughter but gives us a warm welcome. Elsa is proud to show us her house before saying goodbye. We have met with Natnael every day since and will surely visit Elsa again later this week. They are 2 wonderful kids.
The following morning, after a peaceful night without any disturbance, we take off to drive the next 150km to Axum. 75km before Axum we see black at the horizon. Is this really what I think it is we say to each other? YES, it is tarmac, really nice tarmac! With some small interruptions we drive to Axum on a clean new road.
Axum is going to be our base for a few days because we found a luxurious hotel for Ethiopian standards: running hot water, electricity and a clean bed (no flees). Luckily the price is Ethiopian and only 7 euros per night which is cheaper than many campings we have stayed. Saturday is market day in Axum so that is where we go to get a sense of local life in the Tigrai region. On the market a few fresh vegetables are sold, you mainly see different types of wheat such as teff, used to make injera (the local sour pancake), cotton and plastic shoes or second hand clothing. After spending an hour, we sit down to just look around and immediately kids are surrounding us. We cannot help but to take pictures and this is how we meet Natnael.
After taking some pictures we show them to the children and Natnael, a 13 year-old boy, asks us where we are from. As he speaks good English, he can actually translate for us. We spend the afternoon with him while he shows us around the market. In the middle of many children is Elsa, a very sweat 8 year old girl that does not speak English yet but with her pure look draws our attention. We also show her picture on the camera which triggers a big and beautiful smile on her face. She grabs Vals' hand and never lets go for the rest of the afternoon, smiling at Val when people react to them holding hands in the market. Together with Natnael and Elsa we stroll over the market going from stand to stand. Natnael sometimes explains to us what the different wheats are for or the spices that are sold on the market. Barry explains to Natnael that we never see raw cotton in Europe, only the finished sweater or pants that we wear. It does not take long for Natnael to grab our camera and to start taking pictures while we talk with some of the children. A few pointers here and there from Barry and Natnael quickly takes nice pictures without any help.
Unintentionally we end up spending the whole day on the market with Elsa and Natnael and walk them home to make sure that they are safe. Elsa's mum was caught by surprise when we showed up with her daughter but gives us a warm welcome. Elsa is proud to show us her house before saying goodbye. We have met with Natnael every day since and will surely visit Elsa again later this week. They are 2 wonderful kids.
Ethiopia - Simien Mountains
10 / Jun / 2010
We arrive in Debark a bit too late to buy the entry tickets for the park and to arrange the scout so ended up sleeping in town at the Simien Park Hotel. As it turns out to be not the cleanest place in town we sleep in the car. Toilets but no shower; if you like a bucket of water it can be provided. As if we would take a bush shower in the parking area in front of all the other guests?! No need to mention we were out of there at first light going to the ticket office for the Simien Mountains.
Despite our efforts for not taking a scout we are gently but firmly explained that the armed scout is mandatory for our own safety and that he knows the road (there is only one road in the Simien Mountains). Shortly after, the scout Toso jumps in the back of the car with his loaded or not loaded historic old gun. We drive through the market of Debark into the mountains leading to the park gate where our tickets and the presence of a scout are checked. Within 10km after the gate we start to see the famous Gelada baboons. It is a small group of about 20 animals all busy feeding themselves on the grasses of the plains. We are driving to one of the last camps in the park (Chennek) which takes us through most of the park by road going up and down the many mountains. Simien Mountains are one of Africa's largest range with several peaks topping 4,000 meters. The views are spectacular from the road but only once you get out of the car you can see that part of the road leads you along cliffs that are at least a few hundred meters high. Arriving at Chennek camp, 3,614 meters high, not only you can feel the altitude but also the temperature drop: you are literally in the clouds that will bring rain in the late afternoon/evening.
After catching our breath we realize that the car is parked in the middle of a large group of baboons. They are everywhere around us and soon we find ourselves photographing these beautiful baboons that can only be seen in Ethiopia. Besides photographing them it is really interesting to just watch the behavior and social interaction within the group. Very quickly you start to see the different characters of the animals and their role within the group. It made me, Barry, feel totally in my element. Just being in between and so close to these animals is special. These baboons are sometimes so close, sometimes less than 2 meters away that it is really different from other parks where you are supposed to stay in your car for your safety. When you see the males yawning and showing their teeth, you wonder how safe you really are. But at the same time they show no aggression towards us. The 'smarter' ones that do not want to be photographed simply turn their back to you and do not even walk away. Just minding their own business and continue eating the grass.
From one second to the next a small fight breaks out in the group and stops as quickly as it started making it very difficult to photograph. At the end of the afternoon the group slowly makes their way to the cliffs where they descend to find safe sleeping grounds for the night leaving us just enough time to make dinner before the rain starts. The night is cold but luckily we can sleep in the car.
Toso wakes us up early in the morning because the Geladas are back and the sun is up providing some warmth before it hides again behind the clouds around 10. The baboons are grooming each other in the morning sun while the youngsters are playing in a pool of water nearby. They chase each other around the plains and hide with their mothers when the chase turns almost into a small fight. The Simien Mountains are breathtaking and spending a few weeks to enjoy the scenery, the animals or hiking is worth it.
Despite our efforts for not taking a scout we are gently but firmly explained that the armed scout is mandatory for our own safety and that he knows the road (there is only one road in the Simien Mountains). Shortly after, the scout Toso jumps in the back of the car with his loaded or not loaded historic old gun. We drive through the market of Debark into the mountains leading to the park gate where our tickets and the presence of a scout are checked. Within 10km after the gate we start to see the famous Gelada baboons. It is a small group of about 20 animals all busy feeding themselves on the grasses of the plains. We are driving to one of the last camps in the park (Chennek) which takes us through most of the park by road going up and down the many mountains. Simien Mountains are one of Africa's largest range with several peaks topping 4,000 meters. The views are spectacular from the road but only once you get out of the car you can see that part of the road leads you along cliffs that are at least a few hundred meters high. Arriving at Chennek camp, 3,614 meters high, not only you can feel the altitude but also the temperature drop: you are literally in the clouds that will bring rain in the late afternoon/evening.
After catching our breath we realize that the car is parked in the middle of a large group of baboons. They are everywhere around us and soon we find ourselves photographing these beautiful baboons that can only be seen in Ethiopia. Besides photographing them it is really interesting to just watch the behavior and social interaction within the group. Very quickly you start to see the different characters of the animals and their role within the group. It made me, Barry, feel totally in my element. Just being in between and so close to these animals is special. These baboons are sometimes so close, sometimes less than 2 meters away that it is really different from other parks where you are supposed to stay in your car for your safety. When you see the males yawning and showing their teeth, you wonder how safe you really are. But at the same time they show no aggression towards us. The 'smarter' ones that do not want to be photographed simply turn their back to you and do not even walk away. Just minding their own business and continue eating the grass.
From one second to the next a small fight breaks out in the group and stops as quickly as it started making it very difficult to photograph. At the end of the afternoon the group slowly makes their way to the cliffs where they descend to find safe sleeping grounds for the night leaving us just enough time to make dinner before the rain starts. The night is cold but luckily we can sleep in the car.
Toso wakes us up early in the morning because the Geladas are back and the sun is up providing some warmth before it hides again behind the clouds around 10. The baboons are grooming each other in the morning sun while the youngsters are playing in a pool of water nearby. They chase each other around the plains and hide with their mothers when the chase turns almost into a small fight. The Simien Mountains are breathtaking and spending a few weeks to enjoy the scenery, the animals or hiking is worth it.
Ethiopia: yuyuyuyuyu
07 / Jun / 2010
The border crossing with Ethiopia is special and something to remember and not like any other border crossing we have seen in the past few months of traveling. You go from hut to hut and meet people without any uniform or looking close to an official. You get a few stamps, carnet de passage is signed and that's it. The Bradt Travel Guide describes it as a dusty one-horse outpost which is more or less what it is like.
After the border crossing we drive into the beautiful mountains up to 2,000 meters high and see the temperature drop to as low as 16 degrees and have to pull out our sweaters. The roads are very nice to drive on but are clearly not made for cars despite being of perfect tarmac. The roads are for cattle, donkeys, kids and everybody else that needs to go from one village to the next. The speed of driving drops allowing you to enjoy the scenery. In the first village that we pass we are met by kids running up to the car screaming 'yuyuyuyuyuyuyuyuyuyu' and waving to us with a big smile on their face. This continues until we reach Gonder where make a stop at the bank to change money since the bank at the border was closed between 12 and 15:00. With some cash in the pocket we drive some 65km to Tim&Kim Village in Gorgora at Lake Tana to spend a few days. Every morning we wake up by the side of the lake in which we take a bath sharing it with a hippo and the fish eagles. It is very nice to stay and relax in this community based project run by a young Dutch couple.
After the border crossing we drive into the beautiful mountains up to 2,000 meters high and see the temperature drop to as low as 16 degrees and have to pull out our sweaters. The roads are very nice to drive on but are clearly not made for cars despite being of perfect tarmac. The roads are for cattle, donkeys, kids and everybody else that needs to go from one village to the next. The speed of driving drops allowing you to enjoy the scenery. In the first village that we pass we are met by kids running up to the car screaming 'yuyuyuyuyuyuyuyuyuyu' and waving to us with a big smile on their face. This continues until we reach Gonder where make a stop at the bank to change money since the bank at the border was closed between 12 and 15:00. With some cash in the pocket we drive some 65km to Tim&Kim Village in Gorgora at Lake Tana to spend a few days. Every morning we wake up by the side of the lake in which we take a bath sharing it with a hippo and the fish eagles. It is very nice to stay and relax in this community based project run by a young Dutch couple.